Plastisol vs water-based ink for silkscreen apparel decoration in Tbilisi

Name: Merch.com.ge
Address: GE

When plastisol is the right answer for a vibrant, durable silkscreen print, and when water-based ink is the right answer for sustainability-mandated or hand-feel-sensitive apparel.

Pick the right ink Sustainability programme

How the two inks behave on a screen-print press

Plastisol is a PVC-based ink that sits on top of the fabric. The ink is a thermoplastic that is printed as a paste and then cured at 160°C for 15 to 20 seconds; the heat fuses the plastic particles into a continuous film on the fabric surface. The print is opaque, vibrant and durable; the hand-feel is a slight plastic layer on the fabric. Plastisol is the workhorse ink for silkscreen apparel decoration globally.

Water-based ink is a pigment suspended in a water-based binder that soaks into the fabric fibres. The ink is printed as a liquid and then cured at 100°C for 2 to 3 minutes; the water evaporates and the binder bonds the pigment to the fabric. The print is softer (the ink is inside the fabric rather than on top), more breathable and less plasticky in the hand-feel; the colour vibrancy is typically 10 to 20% lower than plastisol on the same artwork.

Each ink has a sweet spot. Plastisol is the right answer for high-vibrancy, high-opacity prints on dark fabrics (a corporate polo in navy with a white logo needs plastisol because the white has to be opaque against the navy). Water-based ink is the right answer for light-colour prints on light fabrics (a white t-shirt with a corporate mark in a single colour) and for sustainability-mandated programmes where the buyer requires OEKO-TEX or GOTS-certified consumables.

Cost, durability and the OEKO-TEX question

Plastisol cost is similar to water-based ink on a per-garment basis; the per-litre cost of plastisol is slightly higher than water-based ink, but the per-garment consumption is similar. The setup cost (the screen exposure, the artwork preparation) is the same for both inks. Plastisol is widely available in standard colour ranges; custom Pantone colours are mixed to order at a small surcharge.

Water-based ink cost is comparable to plastisol on a per-garment basis; the per-litre cost is slightly lower, the per-garment consumption is similar, and the setup cost is the same. Water-based inks are also available in OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certified versions (we use the Union Ink Eco line and the Matsui line), which is a requirement for sustainability-mandated buyers.

Durability differs. Plastisol is durable for the lifetime of the garment under normal use; the print survives 50+ wash cycles without visible degradation if the wash-care instructions are followed. Water-based ink is durable but the print fades faster (visible degradation after 20 to 30 wash cycles); the trade-off is the softer hand-feel and the OEKO-TEX certification.

For a sustainability-mandated programme (a CSRD-reporting buyer, a donor-funded programme, a brand-conscious consumer goods company) the OEKO-TEX-certified water-based ink is the right answer. For a corporate uniform programme (a hospitality chain, a retail chain, a logistics company) where the print has to survive daily commercial laundry, plastisol is the right answer. For a one-off event programme (a conference kit, a brand-launch kit) either is acceptable; the choice is aesthetic.

The dark-fabric problem

Water-based ink has a fundamental limitation on dark fabrics. The ink is transparent (the pigment is suspended in the binder, not opaque), so a dark navy polo with a white water-based ink logo needs a plastisol underbase to make the white opaque. The underbase is a thin plastisol layer printed first, then cured, then overprinted with the water-based ink. The combined process is slower and more expensive than a single plastisol print, and the hand-feel advantage of the water-based ink is partially lost.

For a programme that is sustainability-mandated and uses dark fabrics, the answer is a discharge ink. Discharge ink is a water-based ink with a discharge agent that strips the dye from the fabric and replaces it with the pigment colour; the result is a print that is the same colour as the fabric (the dye is replaced, not covered) and has the soft hand-feel of a water-based print on a dark fabric. Discharge ink works on reactive-dyed cotton (the standard corporate polo); it does not work on polyester or poly-cotton blends.

Discharge ink is the most sustainable answer for dark-fabric corporate apparel: water-based, OEKO-TEX certified, soft hand-feel, no underbase. The catch is that the colour range is restricted to the discharge-pigment palette (which is narrower than the Pantone palette), and the colour match to a Pantone reference is approximate. For a brand-critical dark-fabric programme the buyer has to accept the approximate match.

Frequently asked questions

Which ink is more durable for a corporate uniform programme?

Plastisol. The print survives 50+ commercial laundry wash cycles without visible degradation. Water-based ink fades faster (visible degradation after 20 to 30 cycles).

Which ink is required for OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certification?

Water-based ink. OEKO-TEX Standard 100 covers the finished textile, including the inks and dyes used. Plastisol is not OEKO-TEX compliant by default; the few OEKO-TEX-certified plastisols on the market are a niche option.

Can water-based ink be used on dark fabrics?

Yes, with a discharge agent for reactive-dyed cotton, or with a plastisol underbase for non-reactive fabrics. Discharge ink produces a softer hand-feel; the underbase approach is faster but less soft.

Is Corp-Merch affiliated with any ink supplier?

No. We source from Union Ink, Matsui and other independent ink suppliers; we are not a partner, sponsor or affiliate of any of them.

Corp-Merch is an independent corporate merchandise producer in Georgia. We are not a partner, sponsor or official supplier of any ink supplier, conference, awards body, association or government body named anywhere on merch.com.ge.

Pick the right ink

Send the artwork, the fabric, the colour count and the sustainability requirement. A named production lead will reply within one working day with the recommended ink and the per-garment cost.